The Veranda of Mecca

In any organized event, mission, or project there is a defining moment.  A crystalized point in time that encapsulates, elevates, and  gives soul to the heart of the effort.

We experienced this in a quiet, profound and surprising way last night after one of our medical lectures.  It was time to say goodbye to all our invaluable, noble and delightful translators who were so much a part of our healing process.  They became intimately involved with our patients and their families providing not only the comfort of a familiar language in a very foreign environment, but also warmth and compassion. These intelligent people had a difficult job as sometimes, although the doctor and nurse were there at the bedside, they were the ones who had to tell a family that we cannot help them, that there is nothing more medically we can do. 

Many of these translators came from Jakarta and volunteered their time, just as we had.  So we acknowledged them last night with accolades, small gifts, many hugs and a party.  But before the party started, Tamala, a very gracious and eloquent woman from Jakarta spoke to us.  She started off thanking us all for the opportunity we gave her to act as translator and provide this gift to the Acehan people. 

Her address to us started with a paraphrase of Sir Arthur Chesterfield, "A human being is happiest when they provide service for others."  And Tamala followed this with, "this ship must be the happiest place on earth." 

She explained that prior to the tsunami, Indonesian people were wary of Americans, concerned about our perceived place in the world, and distrustful of our motives in global affairs.  We were feared and even despised.  Post tsunami, the Indonesian people have seen the American "war machines" (our trusty helios) bringing food, water, medical supplies, and medical personnel.  They have read about the efforts the various American organizations have made on land, and the Great White Ship Mercy's story has spread to the tiniest of mountain villages. 

According to the newspapers in Jakarta, Indonesian public opinion is now 70% favorable towards Americans, and we are viewed largely as a compassionate nation, strong, and willing to use our strength and wealth to build and save, not destroy.

Tamala said this was an extraordinary gift that we have given to Indonesia, as great a gift as the medical aid --  For we have healed the soul of two nations.

But there were more precious gems that this strong, delicate woman shared with us.  A story she said she was sure we did not know.  Most of the people that we are helping come from a conflict driven society where they are the pawns, of little perceived value, only strategic tokens.  The army will burn their homes and extort from them she said; and then the separatists will kidnap them, extort from them and burn their homes.  They are people treated as gambling pieces. 

And then the world came to their aid; and the Mercy, staffed with the feared Americans gradually became a welcome and honored fixture on their horizon. 

What we did not know, Tamala explained, is that we gave back to these people their self-respect.  Because of the extraordinary care, kindness, and respect we showed these people, she said,  we provided them a greater cure than we could imagine.  We saw people who have had limbs amputated; people with disfigurements that could only be marginally repaired, people who had successful treatments, people who were sent home to die---and yet they smiled and were happy.  They pressed their hand from their heart and forehead to our hand.  A profound gesture of humility, and gratitude. 

We had thought that with these people, expecially those we could not help, that we sent them home with no hope.  What Tamala told us was that we sent them home with dignity.  We sent them home with a renewed sense of self worth and self respect. 

As we sat spellbound by her simple elegance and eloquence, she continued to explain more.

All the patients she spoke with were saying how grateful they were for our kindness and gentleness.  However, they are so poor they will never be able to repay us, and express their gratitude appropriately.  They said that God will have to repay us for them. 

Banda Aceh, the most devastated area from the tsunami, is also one of the most religious places in Indonesia, it is considered the Veranda of Mecca, "the room before you enter the most holy room".  In the eyes of these devout and holy people, the Mercy has delivered them, their family, and their friends safely and respectfully to its door.

These people of Bande Aceh are very poor and they repeatedly express their gratitude in the only way they now how.  To tell you all that they cannot repay you for what you have done, but that God will is their most powerful and poignant compliment,  It is at the very core of their belief.

With her hand to her heart, and then to her head, she bowed slightly and said "terima kasih",

"Accept Love."  (thank you, in Acehan).

Accept Love.

And to all my family and friends, I take this gift and share it with all of you.

Terima kasih.